All this information combines to gives you a foundation to work from.  Developing your base setup is derived from a range of allowable adjustments that can be applied to your car, controlled by physical tolerances that cannot be exceeded without major performance loss.  It is my attempt here to give you a competative but safe starting point, so you can then fine tune the combination to work best for you.  Actual car setup is as diverse as the drivers themselves, and is always a subject for debate.  I believe the three area's you'll work with the most from track to track are 'Ride Height' on each corner, 'Tire Pressure', and 'Spring Rate' on each shock.  The next in line will be Caster, and Camber and Toe-Out.  It's helpful to remember this order on these adjustments.   If you adjust Caster, it will affect Camber and Toe-Out.  If you adjust Camber, it will affect Toe-Out only.  Toe-Out can be adjusted without affecting either. 

For paved oval track, these cars like a lot of right front wheel negative camber to keep the front end from pushing in the turns.  Your caster setting will affect how easily the car turns left.  A good starting point for caster will be Left Front (LF) pos+ 2 degrees. Right Front (RF) pos+ 3 degrees.  A rule of thumb is a 'one degree split' between sides with a right side bias.  For camber, start with LF pos+ 2 1/2 degrees, RF neg- 4 1/2 degrees.  Check out Longacre Racing for good front end setup equipment.  Adding camber will affect your overall width, so check that you can pass within the 60" limit.  Stand the left front up more if your too wide, adjusting to LF pos+ 1 1/2 degrees if necessary.  Your toe-out should be at least 1/16", with a maximum of about a 1/4" for most tracks.

The spring rates on each corner of the car is difficult to define for an individual driver, and affects many of the factors you will be monitoring such as individual wheel weight when the car is scaled, ride height, and how the car reacts and feels under race conditions.  I believe the best procedure to follow is to start by knowing what percentage of weight each corner of the car is carrying against the overall weight of the car full of fuel.  You will need to acquire (beg, borrow or steal) a set of Computerscales to find this out, but it is worth all the trouble.  At this point it is important to say, "Document Everything You Do To The Car!"  Find a Chassis Set-up Sheet and use it every time you set-up or make changes to the car.  It will be nice to have once you find that sweet spot, and makes your performance much more consistent from track to track.  You want to note the cross weight, left side bias, and rear bias.  My method, not that it's the right way or the only way, is to set-up without the driver in the car to dial it in, then to note the final effect with the driver in the car.  Although their will be a change, usually in the range of one percent in each of these three areas, the driver weight is a fairly constant factor you can estimate while achieving the final setting.  I measure cross weight by the percentage of the RF and LR weight combined.  This is usually the higher number of the two cross percentages.  According to this rating method, a higher percentage of cross weight will eventually cause a push in the corner, a lower percentage will cause the car to be loose.  The different Legends Car chassis styles (Coupe and Sedan) will require different overall percentages to yield a balanced feel, but I believe most should fall in the range between 51% to 60% crossweight for best performance.  Adding a stiffer spring to one corner of the car or screwing the coil-over nut in towards the spring will increase the weight load carried by that corner, which in turn increases the overall weight percentage for the corners being measured. Adjust for your need to eliminate understeer (push) or overseer (loose).  The left side bias can be improved by adding lead weight to the left side of the chassis.  By the rule book, you can not exceed 52% left side bias.  This helps to stabilize the car in the turn by reacting against the centrifugal force of the left hand turn trying to lift the chassis, causing the left side tires to loose traction. The design of these cars and the amount of lead weight you can actually fit on the car should yield a range of left side weight bias between 49% and 52%.   Rear bias is also improved by adding weight, again not to exceed 52% rear bias by rule.  This improves overall rear traction.  Finding a balance on where to place the weight is the challenge, and should probably be applied as fine tuning after you get a comfortable setup on the car without it.   

Here is what I call the 'School Car' setup.  Our Legends Cars dealer, Randy Shearer of Team Legends Cars of California, runs this setup on the cars he rents out for his 'Arrive and Drive' program.  People that have never driven a race car can get into one of his cars, drive fast, and keep it off the walls.  Before I purchased my first Legends Car, I went to a few races to note the lap times of these cars.  I then ran one of his school cars, and was running fast enough to make the field at our local track, the Cajon Speedway.  This made my mind up on whether to get a car.  He has told me that he will give this setup to anyone that asks for it, so I am posting it for your benefit.  This is for a paved oval race track, and I'm confident you could take this setup and run it almost anywhere.

Spring Rates (lbs.)

Tire Pressure (psi)

Ride Height

Use the caster, camber, toe-out and pinion angle settings suggested from the above.   If you try this setup, and it feels right for you, I suggest that you print out 'Kev'sCorner Quick Fix Guide' and use it to tune for your needs.